tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19822988332977796252024-03-19T03:20:44.267+00:00Overland!SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.comBlogger318125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-26114903652513873592016-03-30T23:51:00.005+01:002016-04-08T04:46:02.727+01:00Day 384: The end... The beginning...<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
I got up early this
morning to take some photos of the fishing boats on their way out to
sea and then went back to join the others for some pancakes in the
hotel restaurant. Then, while the girls played with the Turkish kids,
I packed our bags for the last time. Just before midday, we checked
out and left our bags at reception then headed down the road to what
had by now become known as the crispy duck restaurant for some lunch.<br />
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After we had eaten,
we returned to the resort to kill some time. The girls and I went for
a swim but as we couldn't find Kate's costume, she had to stay dry.
At about 4pm our car arrived and we drove back to Denpasar, spotting
lots of macaques at various spots beside the road on the way – we
won't be sad to not see them again for a while.
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We arrived at the
airport at about 6.30pm but as our flight wasn't until after
midnight, we couldn't check in yet, so we made a rather dispiriting
tour of the various food outlets before eventually choosing one,
where we had a pretty dispiriting meal of meat pies and fried rice,
in the process using up the last of our meagre cash reserves.
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Finally, after we
had sat around waiting for a bit longer while a 'security desk' was
opened up, we were allowed to check our bags in and go through proper
security. We still had a while to wait until our flight, however,
which we spent amusing ourselves with the antics of our fellow
tourists, an alarming number of whom kept arriving at the adjacent
gate just before their flight – only to discover that the gate had
been changed, sending them into a blind panic.
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We also watched with
some bemusement as some Air Asia staff started setting things up for
a grand opening – it turns out that ours was the inaugural Denpasar
to Sydney flight, an occasion that was marked with a ribbon-cutting
ceremony, some photo ops and a free cupcake for the passengers. And
then we filed onto the plane and flew to our final destination... </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-89130909979000487562016-03-27T05:40:00.000+01:002016-03-27T05:41:49.444+01:00Days 381-383: Lazy days<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Not long after
getting up on our first morning in Bali we began congratulating
ourselves on our decision to avoid the Kuta area and come up to the
quieter part of the island. The resort we chose was lovely – right
on the beach, nice villa, nice pool, pretty good restaurant, friendly
staff and just the sort of laidback vibe we needed for the final days
of the journey. </div>
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We spent most of our
time just hanging around the resort – swimming in the pool,
snorkelling off the beach and reading. The resort was very quiet –
there were rarely more than two or three other families staying with
us. One of those was a young family who arrived around the same time
as us – the father English, the mother Turkish. They had two
children around the girls' age and the four of them spent quite a bit
of time together, playing in the pool and on the beach. </div>
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For meals, we mostly
just ate at the restaurant in the resort, which was set up on a
terrace beside the pool. For lunch, however, we often walked up the
road to a little collection of shops, restaurants and hotels, usually
stopping off in the basic supermarket to buy an ice cream for
dessert. </div>
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The long, curved
beach is a mixture of black volcanic sand and smooth pebbles/rocks
(mostly the latter, which aren't a lot of fun to walk on). During the
day, it acts as a parking lot for a motley collection of fishing
boats - small outrigger-style catamarans. The fishermen mostly go out
in the early morning, their colourful triangular sails lining the
horizon. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
A local guy has set
up a little stall beside the resort, from which he hires out
snorkelling equipment in the morning. We all got a set each for
exploring the pretty decent reef just off the beach. We went out most
days, seeing a good range of colourful reef fish hanging around the
coral.
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The snorkelling gear
guy also sets up tours to the larger local reefs, hooking tourists up
with fishermen, who take them out for a few hours on their fishing
boats. We did this one morning, putt-putting up the coast to the
inventively named Coral Gardens. The water was gloriously clear, the
coral and fish abundant. The girls eventually started to feel the
cold and climbed back into the boat while Kate and I continued to
explore the reef. The water was so clear that you could go into the
deep and still see the bottom, and I spent some time just hovering,
hoping to spot a shark or something equally large. Without success.
On the way back, our guide unfurled the sail and we caught the breeze
back to the resort, cutting through the slightly choppy water at a
quite impressive speed.
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Later, for my
afternoon snorkel, inspired by my experience at the Coral Gardens, I
went back out into the deep water off the house reef. Again, keeping
my eyes peeled for sharks or other big fish, I noticed something long
and thin swaying above the sand. On closer inspection, I discovered
an enormous colony of sand eels, a small species in the shallower
water and then a really large species (I'm guessing at least a metre
in length) in the deeper water. After watching them for a while, I
swam back to shore and went and got Kate, and we both swam out for a
good look. Unfortunately, there was something with a bit of a sting
in the water, so our eel-watching was quickly curtailed, but it was
one of the most impressive sights I've ever encountered in the ocean.</div>
SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-89720738590282956112016-03-26T23:13:00.001+00:002016-03-26T23:13:15.749+00:00Day 380: Bali bound
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The alarm woke us at
6.30am and we headed out for breakfast at Taipan Food Corner. The
pork buns weren't ready yet, but while we waited, Zoe tucked into
some of her beloved wonton noodles. When my pork bun finally came it
was still cold inside, so I sent it back for a bit more steaming. As
we ate, Sarah had a bit of a moment when a small jumping spider did
what jumping spiders do and jumped around on the table. Sarah has
always had a love-hate relationship with spiders – sometimes she
loves them and wants to hold every spider she sees, other times she
decides she's petrified of them and shies away from even the smallest
arachnids. She was apparently in a hate phase this morning, but I
made her sit still and let the spider climb onto her hand and in no
time she was back in love mode again.
</div>
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<br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Back in the room we
finished packing and then went downstairs to meet 'our' taxi driver,
Kelvin, at 9.30am. At the airport, we checked our bags in and then
sat in a coffee shop until our plane was ready. A short flight later
we were back in KL, where we collected our bags, checked them back in
again and then went to Nando's for lunch. We went through security
but our gate wasn't open yet, so we sat out in the open area.
Eventually, we filed through and onto the plane for the
two-to-three-hour flight to Denpasar. </div>
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<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We were met at the
arrivals exit by our driver (we had chosen to fork out for someone
from the resort to come and pick us up), and went looking for
something to eat as it was after 9pm and we hadn't had any dinner
yet, but there weren't many options, so we got in the van and headed
north. Eventually we came to a McDonald's and the driver pulled off
the road so we could grab some takeaway, which we then ate in the van
as we continued on. All the while I was slowly inching towards
hypothermia as the driver insisted on having the air con on high,
with the outlets pointed right at my chest. After a few hours, the
roads began to get narrower and the stray dogs more abundant and it
started to feel as though we might be reaching our destination.</div>
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<br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We finally arrived
at the resort just after midnight. Grabbing our bags, we trudged
around to our little villa, the gentle lapping of waves on the nearby
shore the only sound. Our driver let us into what proved to be an
absolutely lovely little villa – high-ceilinged, with a big bed on
the ground floor and some mattresses for the girls on a little
upstairs mezzanine. There was a slightly odd vegetal smell in the
room, which we traced to a rather sweet grass-and-flower-petal heart
that had been carefully created on the floor at the foot of our bed.
</div>
SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-52553961988955991202016-03-26T22:58:00.000+00:002016-03-26T22:58:02.605+00:00Day 379: A slow Sunday
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As usual, we went to
McDonald's for breakfast and then headed back to the room to hang
out. It was Sunday today, so when we re-emerged to look for somewhere
to eat, there wasn't much open. We ended up in Hong Kong Noodle, a
restaurant just around from Taipan Food Corner. It was quite a big
place, and had a few customers in, but the food was decidedly
average.
</div>
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<br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
After lunch, we went
shopping and bought some shoes and sandals for Kate and Sarah, and a
new iPhone case for Kate, and got some more money out. We then
stopped in at the unusually named Bing Coffee (a reference to
Chandler Bing of Friends fame perhaps) where I downed a very nice
iced coffee and sipped a flat white.
</div>
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<br />
</div>
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We then headed back
to the room, where we finally chose our Bali accommodation (for
tomorrow night – nothing like leaving things to the last minute).
We've been agonising over this decision for days – do we go for a
place close to Kuta Beach and the airport in the south, where there's
a bit of a buzz and some surf at the beach, or do we head further
north, where it's significantly more quiet and you can go
snorkelling. We eventually opted for the latter, reasoning that it
would be nice to spend the last few days of the journey just chilling
out, and booked a room at Apa Kabar Villas in Amed, which is on a
north-facing stretch of coast in eastern Bali.
</div>
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<br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We spent the rest of
the afternoon chilling out and watching movies – and the heavy rain
falling outside – before heading out in search of somewhere to have
dinner. There still wasn't much open, so we returned to Top Spot,
where we were now old hands at the whole ordering business. </div>
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<br /></div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-59451962105451227702016-01-06T06:38:00.006+00:002016-01-06T06:38:58.222+00:00Day 378: Top spot!
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
After a leisurely
breakfast of eggs and toast we packed up and hung around the chalet
waiting for our friendly taxi driver to arrive, which he duly did at
about 11.15 cab. We then drove back down to Kuching and checked into
the Nova Hotel again. </div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
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The part of Kuching
in which the hotel is located is a bit bereft of nice places to eat
(Taipan Food Corner is great, but there's only so many times you can
eat noodles and wontons), so we checked out Trip Advisor to see what
other options were available. We settled on a place called Top Spot
Food Court, which seemed reasonably close by, and headed off.
Although it looked pretty straightforward to get there, when we
arrived at what we thought was the right place all we could find was
a multi-storey car park. After a bit of sleuthing, we found a few
signs and a rather skanky elevator, which we took to the top floor.
Turning a corner, we came across a sea of tables and rows of food
stalls, but no diners – thanks to our leisurely attitude to meal
times we had managed to miss lunch. Our regular McDonald's was just
across the road, so we slouched in there and filled up on
production-line burgers and fries instead.</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We spent the
afternoon in the hotel room, enjoying the air conditioning and cable
TV, before heading back out Top Spot again for dinner. This time,
when we turned the corner, we found a sea of diners filling the
tables and washing up against the food stalls. We did a quick
circuit, peering at the brightly lit displays of seafood and
vegetables at each of the stalls. We eventually chose one and
received a quick tutorial on how it all worked. The idea was that you
grabbed a tray, piled it up with the things you wanted to eat and
then told them how you wanted it all cooked. They then weighed the
various ingredients to work out the price and then handed it over to
the kitchen. </div>
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We opted for a nice
big fish, a pile of prawns and a bigger pile of vegetables. After
handing it all over we grabbed a nearby table and ordered some beers
and soft drinks. While we waited for the food to arrive, I wandered
over to a different stall and grabbed some satay sticks.
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It didn't take long
for our ingredients to return in cooked form, but unfortunately Kate
hadn't specified how she wanted the vegetables prepared, and when
they arrived, they were drowning in a frankly inedible sauce. She
took them back to the stall and they very kindly agreed to replace
them with something a bit more to our taste. The seafood dishes were
delicious – as were the replacement veges – and we had a very
pleasant meal, chatting while we ate to a lovely Dutch couple with
whom we were sharing the table.
</div>
SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-29143078397181090162016-01-02T07:24:00.000+00:002016-01-02T07:24:17.921+00:00Day 377: Several steps too far<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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After rising late again and having
some toast and eggs again, we headed out into the forest again. This time we
set off up the hill on the reservoir track, which proved to consist of a lot of
stone steps going up the side of the mountain. A lot of stone steps. Going up.
And up. And up. When we reached a side track heading off to some lookouts, the
girls refused to continue climbing. I decided that having climbed so many
sodding steps, I couldn’t stop without seeing the actual reservoir, and
continued up on my own. I soon met a guy coming down who assured me that it
wasn’t much further so I called out to the others, but the girls still refused
to go any higher. Kate was also keen to see the reservoir, however, so she
continued up with me. The guy was right and we didn’t have much further to
climb, but when we got there, we discovered that the climb definitely wasn’t
worth the effort: the reservoir was just that – a small man-made pond with a
fence around it. Kate quickly turned around and rejoined the girls, but I
stayed and did a circuit in the hope that I would come across a snake or lizard
or two out sunning themselves in the man-made clearing around the reservoir. I
didn’t. </div>
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When I got back down to the others,
we set off for the lookouts, which, as per our other lookout experiences in
Southeast Asia, were pretty uninspiring, the haze from the Indonesian fires
obscuring anything that might have been worth looking out at.<br />
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When we had set off this morning,
Kate had said, ‘I want to see a snake today,’ and as we approached the last of
the lookouts, she fulfilled her own request, spotting a juvenile viper on a
pile of bark beneath a large tree. </div>
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It was around lunch time by now, so
stopped on a big log for some tuna and cucumber sandwiches – but we didn’t
linger as there were clouds of mosquitoes around intent on lunching on us.<br />
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As per usual, it was a hot and
steamy day, so on the way back down we stopped for a quick immersion in a
shallow pool in a small creek, struggling a little to find a pool big enough to
get wet enough in. The track we were following was uncharacteristically well
marked, with big slashed of red and white paint on the adjacent trees; however,
Zoe and still managed to wander off it at one point when Sarah and Kate had
gone off ahead of us. Thankfully, we realised our mistake relatively quickly
and rejoined the others not long after.</div>
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When we got back to the chalet, we did
a bit of clothes washing and hung it out just as the sun disappeared. There was
another storm in the area, but this time there was a lot of thunder but no
rain.</div>
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After dinner – pasta again - I went
out on another night walk, but despite covering a lot of ground, I didn’t see
much: just a couple of sleeping <i>Gonocephalus</i> and a few big phasmids.<br />
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-91314396437634305192015-12-16T04:51:00.003+00:002015-12-16T04:51:45.142+00:00Day 376: Finding the fantastic fleshy flower
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We were up late this
morning. I cooked some eggs in the giant wok and toasted some bread
over the open flame on the stove and then we set off up the main
waterfall track. It was hard going – the track was steep and the
day was warm – but we saw a few <i>Gonocephalus</i> and a few
geckoes along the way. All the while we were on the lookout for the
<i>Rafflesia</i> flower that we had heard about yesterday. </div>
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As we approached our
final destination – Waterfall 7 – I spotted a gecko on a large
rock beside the path and called the others over to have a look. As
the girls and I watched the little lizard, Kate suddenly called out,
'There it is.' And sure enough, on the other side of the path atop a
large rock was the <i>Rafflesia</i> flower. Deep orange-red, fleshy,
about 30 centimetres across, it hadn't quite unfurled completely yet
but was still very impressive. Not far away we also spotted a
<i>Rafflesia</i> bud on a liana.</div>
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When we reached the
waterfall, we all stripped off and went for a swim (and Zoe was
visited by a large butterfly), before making some sandwiches for
lunch. After we had finished eating, we were joined by six local
women who had come up from the town to see the <i>Rafflesia</i>
flower.
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We packed up and
made the long walk back down to the chalet, arriving just before a
storm broke, complete with lightning, thunder and sheeting rain. We
spent the afternoon hanging around the chalet and in the evening, I
cooked some more pasta for dinner.
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After dinner I went
back out for another night walk, taking the waterfall track again. I
went a lot higher up this time and about halfway up the hill I
spotted some movement near a small ephemeral (now dry) creek that
resolved into a frog – and then another. As they were both
relatively nondescript brown ground frogs I wasn't too fussed about
photographing them, so I made a slightly half-hearted and wholly
ham-fisted attempt to catch both and ended up catching neither.
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I kept going up the
hill and found a couple of sleeping <i>Gonocephalus</i> and a very
large and well-armoured phasmid, and then turned around and headed
back down again. When I got to the ephemeral creek, I stopped and
shone my torch around for a while, trying to spot some more frogs.
High up the slope, I saw what looked to be a small green frog on a
large green leaf, so I clambered up for a closer look. It turned out
to be a young spotted rock frog – dark spots on its back but a
brilliant lime green elsewhere. I took off my daypack and cap and set
about trying to find a suitable spot from which to photograph it on
the steep slope. Perched precariously, I contorted myself to get the
right angles on the little amphibian, all the while digging my feet
into the slope to try to stop myself sliding off. </div>
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Looking around, I
found a few more frogs and spent some time moving from frog to frog,
looking for the perfect shot. When I was done, I picked up my cap and
popped it on my head without bothering to check it – and instantly
regretted doing so. It was covered in small brown ants and
consequently so, now, was my head. Much cursing and slapping ensued
as I attempted to rid myself of the biting blighters.
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-1614056257714302422015-11-26T04:28:00.000+00:002015-11-26T04:28:04.776+00:00Day 375: Land of the giant flower
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It was McDonald's
for breakfast again this morning, after which we went back out to the
supermarket near the hotel to pick up supplies for our next
destination – Gunung Gading National Park – where again there is
nowhere to buy food but there is a kitchen in our 'chalet'. Then,
after dropping the shopping and the girls off at the hotel, Kate and
I went back out and then split up – she went to get some bread and
cash, and I went for a haircut. My stylist was a very sweet young
local guy who waved away my instructions and proceeded to shape my
hair into a close of his own style – very short at the sides and
rather 'sculpted' on top.
</div>
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After meeting up
again back at the hotel, we all went back out and picked up some
barbecued pork from a little Chinese restaurant then some slushies
from the 7-Eleven across the road. We then went back to the hotel,
where our driver (and he is now 'our driver', this being our third
journey with him) was waiting. We chucked our bags in the taxi and
then set off for the more than an hour long journey to the park. When
we got there, we checked in and got the exciting news that there was
a <i>Rafflesia</i> in flower next to the path that ran up the mountain
behind the park headquarters. A parasite that grows on lianas, there
are more than 20 species of <i>Rafflesia</i> and they all produce very
large, foul-smelling flowers – in some cases, the world's largest.
There's no set season for flowering, so although we knew that Gunung
Gading was a very good place to see them, we had no idea whether any
would be in flower during our visit.</div>
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We dropped our stuff
in our 'chalet' – a three-bedroom wooden building with a kitchen,
two bathrooms (with cold showers), and a big communal living area
with sofas, an eight-seater dining table and very high ceilings. I
gave the kitchen a once-over and discovered that it didn't have a
toaster, a fridge or any saucepans or frying pans, just a simple gas
stove, a rice cooker and an extremely large wok. We put the girls in
the only room with air conditioning and Kate and I took a room each. </div>
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We then headed out
for a quick walk - up the (pretty steep) main trail to the first of
the three waterfalls that it connects. As has been true in the other
parks we've visited, the term 'waterfall' is used pretty loosely –
it's really just a spot where a creek flows down over a larger than
usual rock. There was a small pool at its base, but we didn't really
feel like swimming – although Kate and the girls still managed to
find a way to get their lower reaches wet, slipping and sliding and
falling into one pool or another while I was away photographing
frogs. </div>
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On the way back
down, we took a slide trail that led to a boardwalk through a
'<i>Rafflesia</i> research area'. Near the junction, Sarah spotted a dead<i>
Rafflesia</i> flower by the path – a strange black-brown shrivelled up
thing. Where the boardwalk exited the forest, a swimming area had
been constructed – much like the one at Kubah National Park,
created by damming a stream that exited the forest at the same place
– and the girls and I stripped off and went for a quick swim in it.
There was also a very basic fountain nearby, with a single jet
shooting up from the centre of a small circular pond.</div>
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After dinner (pasta cooked in the rice cooker; sauce cooked in the enormous wok), I
walked back up the main trail but didn't see much – just a gecko or
two. I came back down the <i>Rafflesia</i> boardwalk, but saw even less
there. I was about to head back to the chalet when I heard a
desultory croak from the fountain near the swimming area. I went over
to investigate and managed to find four different species of frog in
the little pond, including a gorgeous orange and black example.
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-30467784663441362582015-11-24T06:53:00.004+00:002015-11-24T06:53:42.659+00:00Day 374: Back in the big city
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We took things easy
in the morning, making some toast for breakfast and then packing up.
We had kept the business card given to us by the cab driver who drove
us out to Bako National Park and yesterday we arranged for him to
pick us up this morning to take us back to Kuching. It was raining
when he arrived at about 11am and still raining when we drove slowly
past a car sitting upside-down in a ditch beside the road.
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The journey back to
Kuching was short - less than an hour - but still took a bit longer
than it should have due to an accident on a bridge on the city's
outskirts. Back at the Nova Hotel, we were given our old room, where
we dumped our stuff and then headed out to McDonald's for lunch. We
then visited a few malls trying to find some insect repellent, as
we're all out. Back in the room, we all had showers and I called
HSBC, who gave us the wonderful and long-awaited news that our
buy-to-let mortgage had been approved.</div>
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For dinner we went
back to our alley-way 'restaurant, which we now know is called Tai
Pan Food Corner – apparently named for the Tai Pan Hotel, which
forms one side of the alley. We got through six satay sticks, two
plates of rice noodles, a bowl of wonton noodles, four beers and two
cokes for the princely sum of US$11.</div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-84734342603531473552015-11-22T23:39:00.000+00:002015-11-22T23:39:05.183+00:00Day 373: A feast of frogs
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After breakfast, we
headed out for a day of walking around in the forest. We saw a lot of
palms, some giant squirrels, a flying lizard, some enormous millipedes and a very cool vine
snake – a slender serpent with an extremely pointy head. After a
lunch of tuna and cucumber rolls in a small shelter in the forest, we
made our way back to the hostel, where the girls went for a swim in
the funny artificial pool while Kate and I did a bit of clothes
washing. There's a drying rack on the hostel's little balcony, but
the balcony was in full shade, so we took the clothes-covered rack
out the front and chased the sun.
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I cooked up some
pasta for dinner again and then we all went down the road to an
artificial pool to look for frogs. We didn't see very many, so I bid
farewell to the others and headed back up to the frog pond. There
seemed to be fewer frogs there, but there were still plenty to keep
me busy – and I also came across a decent-sized snake on the
boardwalk.
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After spending a few
hours photographing frogs I stopped in the little shelter beside the
pond for a bit of a rest. I heard a noise on the tin roof and when I
went out to investigate I discovered it was rain. Not wanting to get
caught in a downpour, I grabbed my stuff and hurried down the hill. I
wasn't completely successful and was pretty damp by the time I got
back indoors.</div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-46611626308157781442015-11-22T04:40:00.002+00:002015-11-22T04:40:30.208+00:00Day 372: The ten-frog challenge
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In the morning we
walked up to the café for breakfast. I was walking ahead of the
others when a snake crossed the path between us – another of the
long, thin stripy snakes we saw yesterday. At breakfast, an Italian
couple were forced to share their meal with a marauding macaque.</div>
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After breakfast, we
packed up and walked to the boat office, which is adjacent to the
café. While we were waiting to get the word that our boat had
arrived I went to get a few final photos of the viper in the tree
next to the office, but it wasn't there. After a bit of a look around
I discovered it in the low branches of a small shrub not far away –
a rather disconcerting height for anyone passing close to the shrub. </div>
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The tide was much
higher this morning than when we arrived, so we were able to leave
via the little dock, which is at the start of the mangrove boardwalk,
which is, naturally, back the way we had just walked. As we reached
the small bridge over the mangrove channel, a large male macaque
suddenly emerged from the undergrowth, ran over to Kate and started
trying to grab our food bag from her. She let out a yelp and grabbed
the bag back and the macaque retreated a little, giving her a chance
to quickly join the rest of us at the stairs to the boat. The macaque
continued to lurk nearby, eyes fixed on the food bag.</div>
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When we arrived at
the office on the river, we disembarked and walked out the front to
the carpark, but our promised ride wasn't waiting for us, so we
chatted to a Belgian couple who were waiting for the bus back to
Kuching. We were just starting to worry that the car wasn't going to
arrive when it did – not a taxi, just a guy in his car. There's
nowhere to eat in Kubah, the next national park we're going to –
but there is a kitchen in our 'hostel', so we asked the driver if he
could stop at a supermarket on the way, preferably one with an ATM as
we were also getting low on cash. He said he knew just the place and
soon enough we were piling out of the car and running up and down the
aisles of a pretty decent supermarket stocking up on pasta, tuna and
bread.
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Not long after, we
made it to the park and the driver dropped us at the entrance near a
little booth, where checked in and bought our park entry tickets. We
were then shown to our accommodation – the upper floor of a large
wooden building on the side of a hill with three bedrooms (with two
bunks and a fan each) and a kitchen and bathroom. It had obviously
seen better days but was more than comfy enough for us, particularly
as we appear to have the whole place to ourselves.
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The information
sheet we had been given at the park entrance informed us that the
park is home to about 60 species of frog, and we decided that we
would set ourselves a challenge – to try to see at least ten
species while we were there. To help us in reaching this goal, there
was apparently a frog pond just up the road, where several species
were said to congregate at night.</div>
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Once we had settled
in, we set off up the rather steep road towards the pond. When we
finally got there, we immediately began to have second thoughts about
our challenge. Although the pond area is quite large (and surrounded
by a wooden boardwalk), it obviously hasn't rained much lately and it
has shrunk to a small muddy pool at the centre. It looked as though
it was going to be a bit more difficult than we though to reach the
ten frog mark, so I decided to take the challenge on just for myself
– and to make things interesting Kate offered to buy me a bottle of
nice wine if I achieved it.</div>
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Our next destination
was a waterfall and swimming hole, about an hour's walk down from the
road through some lovely rainforest. Along the way, we noticed some
large pieces of a pale, papery material beside the path. On closer
inspection, these proved to be some of the most impressive seeds I've
ever laid eyes on. The large brown seed at the centre was set between
two membranous wings, creating a glider with a wingspan of about 20
centimetres or so. The girls grabbed a few and took turns launching
them down the slope and several of them glided for prodigious
distances.</div>
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When we reached the
falls we stripped off and went for a dip in what proved to be a
pretty pathetic, shallow swimming area – no matter, it was just
good to wash the sweat off for a little while. Exploring the rocks
around the falls I found my first frog species – a few
black-spotted rock frogs (#1), a species that seem to be present in
every rainforest stream in Southeast Asia.
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We took a different
route back to the hostel – through the forest the whole way rather
than back along the road. It was hard work – with a lot of pretty
steep uphill hiking – but I was cheered by the discovery of several
forest dragons. These large lizards are close relatives of the dragon
that I did my PhD research on, so it was a bit of a thrill to see
them. We also passed a lot of large palms – apparently Kubah
National Park is a real centre of palm diversity. When we got back to
the hostel, we went for a quick swim in a strange pool that's being
constructed in the stream that runs behind the accommodation. A wall
has been built to dam the stream to create a large shallow pool, into
which water flows via three pipes set up like showers along one side.
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In the evening, I
cooked some pasta for dinner and then bid the others farewell as I
set off to see if I could find my nine other frogs. As I walked up
the hill, I heard something (a frog?) making a single-note call from
the forest nearby. I turned off to investigate, walking downslope to
where there was a small creek. I clambered around for a while looking
for the source of the call, but it seemed to be coming from high in a
tree, so I gave up and tried scanning the rocks in the creek instead
– and sure enough, my torch beam soon picked out a medium-sized
brown frog: #2. </div>
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Continuing up the
road, I heard frogs calling from the forest, but the calls were quite
widely spaced and intermittent, so I decided not to check them out.
After a while, however, I heard what appeared to be quite a few frogs
calling from right beside the road. From the pitch and volume of the
calls, I guessed that they were quite small and when I shone my torch
on the places from which they seemed to be calling, I couldn't see
anything. Indeed, I was able to get right over a calling frog, my ear
close to the leaf litter, but still I couldn't see it. So, finally, I
took the only remaining option. I narrowed down the location of one
individual and then started to move the leaves away to see if
anything turned up. Nothing. But wait - something very small and
brown moved as I moved another leaf and there it was, a frog so small
it wouldn't have covered the nail of my pinkie: #3. </div>
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By now I was close
to the pond, so when I had taken a few photos of the miniscule frog,
I headed over there. The forest seemed very quiet – I could barely
hear anything calling – and I started to have serious doubts about
my chances of hitting the ten-frog goal. When I turned off the road
and into the forest, however, I started to hear a few calls, and when
I got onto the boardwalk and shone my torch down into the leaf litter
around the pool of water at the centre, I spotted a couple of frogs
sitting on logs and sticks. I clambered down and went to work
photographing each amphibian I came across. Not being any sort of
expert on Southeast Asian frogs I wasn't sure that I could tell the
different species apart, so I figured I could go through the photos
later and try to work out if I had reached my goal. Although I
started to try to keep a tally, I quickly lost count. There were
certainly several different species – from small green-and-brown
ones up to some enormous beige treefrogs that would have almost
filled my hand. </div>
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I made numerous
circuits of the pond, occasionally straying a bit too close to the
pool in the centre in my pursuit of a particularly photogenic
individual and beginning to sink into the soft mud around its
margins. There was one species that eluded me, however. I quickly
dubbed it the fart frog because its call resembled the explosive
squelch of comedy flatulence. Although it was common and called
loudly and often, I just couldn't seem to spot one – the fact that
they seemed to be calling from the muddy area next to pool didn't
help – and I began to think that they must be calling from under
the fallen leaves the carpeted the mud. Often, when I was looking for
one of these frogs I would spot another nearby – a common brown
striped treefrog. And finally, after much searching, I made the
connection – these striped frogs were the fart frogs and I managed
to get a few photos of some calling. </div>
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After a few more
circuits of the pond I decided that I had probably seen and
photographed all of the frogs there (it was about 10pm by then), so I
grabbed all of my stuff and started to head back down to the hostel,
which is when I spotted another forest dragon – a green one asleep
on a tree branch. It was in an awkward spot, so it took me some time
to get photos that I was happy enough with.</div>
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On the way back down
the road, I shone my torch into the trees in the hope of spotting
some sort of nocturnal mammal. And sure enough, there, beaming out
from the canopy was the sort of eye-shine you dream about - two
orange beacons glowing among the leaves. I turned my camera on the
eyes and tried to get both lens and torch aimed at them so I could
work out what they belonged to, but all I could see was the eyes
themselves, surrounded by darkness. I pulled out my binoculars, but
the lenses were so dirty that they weren't any help either. By the
time I had cleaned them, the animal had started to make its escape
and I chased it through the forest for a little while but sadly never
got close enough to figure out what it was. (I spoke to a guide a few
days later and he suggested it was probably a civet.)</div>
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A bit further down
the road I heard another one-note call coming from the forest nearby
and I decided once again to investigate. The calls seemed to be
coming from a number of different spots, so I chose one and started
moving towards it, stopping every now and then, turning off my torch
and waiting for it to call again so I could continue to home in on
it. During one of these quiet moments I happened to look down at the
ground and saw something utterly extraordinary. The leaf litter
around me was covered in a bioluminescent fungus of some sort and the
ground was aglow. It was so extensive and so bright that it looked
like the forest floor was being lit by some particularly strong
dappled moonlight.</div>
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</div>
<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
As I closed in one
of the calls, which seemed, again, to be quite high above the ground,
it suddenly moved, and I came to the conclusion that I was chasing an
insect, not a frog, so I gave up and made my way back to the comfort
of my bed (after a quick shower, of course). (Postscript: When I
checked through the photos the next day it became clear that I had
reached the ten-frog goal, possibly with one or two species to
spare.)</div>
SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-20961007101208389102015-11-10T06:34:00.003+00:002015-11-10T06:35:54.927+00:00Day 371: Friendly fish and stripy snakes <div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
After a late-ish
breakfast at the café, we headed out on today's walk, taking the
boardwalk through the mangroves (where it was low tide and the mud
was crawling with hundreds of brightly coloured fiddler crabs, waving
their single oversized claw at each other) then following the loop
trail back the way we had come in yesterday afternoon before taking a
side trail off to the left. Before we started the climb we passed
through a boggy area where a group of frogs was calling excitedly. </div>
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The trail took us
through the same mix of vegetation as yesterday – a bit of
rainforest, a bit of heathland – before we arrived at our
destination: a builders-tea-coloured creek with a few deep pools in
it and a few small waterfalls up- and downstream. We quickly stripped
off and jumped into the cool water; the main pool was quite deep –
at least a metre and a half – and was alive with some
interesting-looking fish. </div>
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Suitably refreshed,
we climbed out and made and ate some lunch. Not long after, we were
joined by two young Italian couples were returning from the end of
the trail we had followed to get to the swimming area. They agreed
with our decision not to continue on to the end – the tide was out
a long way, the haze killed any views and the walk back up from the
beach was pretty arduous. So instead, we just hung around by the
creek and swam some more, chatting to the Italians.
</div>
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By mid-afternoon we
were ready to head back, hitting the shower as soon as we made it to
the room. Sarah went out to give some apple cores to a bearded pig
that was hanging around and was soon calling out that she had seen a
snake. I ran out to see, but it had already disappeared into the
undergrowth. On my way back to the room I spotted some movement that
turned out to be another snake – a long, thin, striped colubrid. I
quickly grabbed it by the tail, but when I picked it up, it thrashed
around a little alarmingly, so I released it and watched it, too,
disappear into the undergrowth. We all sat down on some seats on the
walkway outside the room and the pigs came over to see us. One of
them started chasing something in the grass and sure enough, it was
another of the striped snakes. This time I managed to get into a
position to take a few photos, although the snake was moving so
quickly that few of them turned out.</div>
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After dinner at the
café, we went out for another night walk, finding the usual
assortment of frogs and geckos, as well as a small, brightly coloured
snake. </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-22931341046905277212015-11-08T05:35:00.000+00:002015-11-08T05:35:06.628+00:00Day 370: Going loopy
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I got up before the
others this morning – at about 6.30am – and headed out with my
camera for a bit of a look around. I headed up to the mangrove
boardwalk first and as I got close to the little concrete bridge, I
saw a proboscis monkey swing across the path in front of me. When I
walked up and stopped to see if I could figure out where it had gone,
a cloud of particularly vicious mosquitoes descended on me, so I
decided to retreat back to the relative safety of the room. When I
got close, however, I heard the distinctive grunting of some
proboscis monkeys coming from the screen of trees between the
accommodation and the beach, so I changed direction and made my way
down a little path to the water. Looking along the beach towards
where the sound had come from, I noticed a French family we had
spoken to yesterday with their guide. They were looking out to sea,
so I followed the direction of their gaze and spotted a dark shape in
the water. Bringing my camera to my eye, I saw the distinctive
outline of a rather large saltwater crocodile slowly swimming
parallel to the beach. </div>
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I snapped off a few
shots and then turned my attention to the trees, where there was
quite a large group of proboscis monkeys feeding on handfuls of
leaves fairly close to the ground. As I stood and photographed them,
one, a large male, climbed all the way to the ground and casually
walked along the beach to a tree on the other side of a large gap and
slowly climbed up it. </div>
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While I was
photographing the monkeys, I noticed some movement on a log protruding from the
water. When I looked closer, I saw that it was covered in large
mudskippers, which were climbing on and then fighting their way to
the top, where they were invariably pushed off by others coming up
from below. When they got annoyed, they flashed their
orange-patterned dorsal fins at each other – a fitting visual
signal of their ire. </div>
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Back at the room, I
gathered the others up and we walked down to the café for breakfast, passing the proboscis monkeys on the way.
On offer was an Asian-style buffet, with various dishes of fried
noodles and rice. I grabbed a few spoonfuls while the others opted
for some banana cake and fresh watermelon. As we headed back to the
room to get set up for today's outing, we were called over to a tree
near the café, where a guide pointed out a small viper sitting on a
branch. I took some photos and then noticed one of the bearded pigs
chasing something next to a nearby tree. When I went over, I found a
small monitor clinging to the trunk.</div>
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After grabbing our
stuff, we set off on today's walk – the only loop trail on offer.
The first section took us along the path we took yesterday afternoon
and when we reached the general vicinity of where we saw the
proboscis monkeys, we heard some grunts and some branch shaking and
sure enough, they were there again. We watched for a while as they
moved between the trees. Proboscis monkeys are quite large and in
addition to having a whopping big nose, they also have a big pot
belly. They look a bit ungainly and this is reflected in the way they
move between the trees. Where the gibbons we saw in Sumatra swung
with an effortless grace from branch to branch and tree to tree, the
proboscis just launch themselves into the air, apparently working on
the assumption that whatever they land on will hold their weight –
which mostly it does, although we did see a few crash straight
through and down into the next layer of vegetation below.
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As we left the
moneys behind, the path began to rise and we soon reached a set of
steep wooden stairs, which proved to be the first of many, as we
gained a lot of elevation in a short period. As we climbed higher,
the vegetation changed from the thick, closed rainforest to a more
open forest of thinner, shorter trees. We soon reached a lookout over
the sea and forest below, but we couldn't see a great deal thanks to
a combination of haze and inconveniently situated trees. But there
was a seat, so we stopped for a while to catch our collective breath.</div>
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When we reached the
top of the plateau, the vegetation really thinned out, turning into a
low heathland broken up by outcrops of sandstone and tannin-stained
creeks. Kate and I both noticed a real similarity to the Australian
bushland of our childhoods, albeit populated by a wide variety of
different pitcher plants and a range of other oddly shaped plants.</div>
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At roughly the
halfway point of the loop walk, we came across some benches, so we
decided to stop for lunch. As we ate our tuna and cucumber sandwiches
we were joined by a very, very sweaty Frenchman who was doing the
walk in the other direction – at speed as he was only in the park
for the day. He soon set off and we did the same soon after, crossing
creeks and alternating patches of heath and rainforest until we made
it to the other edge of the escarpment, where the path headed steeply
down and into the coastal mangrove forest.
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When we finally made
it back to the café we stopped for some beer, Bingo (a local fizzy
drink) and water. The macaques were hanging around the area, and
although we sat outside, we did so warily, and at one point I had to
jump up and chase one off with a chair. While we sat, we were joined
by the sweaty Frenchman who had finished the loop from the other
direction. I showed him the viper and then he headed off for his boat
back while we went back to the room, where Kate and I had short naps
while the girls read.
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After another dinner
at the café, we went out onto the boardwalk for another night walk.
We saw a few frogs and toads, and then Kate and the girls headed back
while I continued further into the jungle. I spotted some more frogs
and found a pool filled with moderately sized catfish. On the way
back, I stopped to photograph some more frogs. After a while, I saw
torches approaching and was soon joined by a group of tourists on a
night walk. They stopped not far away from me and when I looked over,
I saw that one of the guides was holding up a stick, from which was
hanging a very large black scorpion. I waited until the paying
punters had all taken their photos and the group had moved on before
moving in to get a few shots of my own. It was a very impressive
arachnid, at least 15 centimetres long with a pair of nasty looking
pincers at the front. </div>
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I then went back to
getting shots of the frogs I had found earlier. As I was
photographing one of the loudly calling tree frogs, I could hear a
fainter call coming from a few spots nearby, on the ground somewhere,
but when I went looking for the frogs that were making it, I couldn't
work out quite where they were. I spent some time moving from call to
call and finally my torch beam lit up a moderately sized brown frog
calling from the muddy ground among some fallen branches. Now that I
knew what I was looking for, I went back to where I had heard another
frog calling and sure enough, I spotted it straight away. I slowly
made my way over and crouched down near the second frog and started
taking photos. When I was done, I stood up - straight into a palm
stem covered in enormous needle-sharp spines, several of which jabbed
extremely painfully into my forehead. I stepped back in shock,
jamming my shoulder into another set of spines. Time to go back to
the room.</div>
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On the way back, I
took the 'back way' – along another boardwalk that provides access
to a second row of bungalows that tourists can hire. As I slowly
walked along, scanning the trees and ground with my torch, a woman
called out from the balcony of one of the bungalows. I stopped and
she came over and pointed up into a large tree beside the boardwalk,
where a flying lemur was resting on the trunk.</div>
SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-2160997505308093582015-10-31T11:23:00.003+00:002015-10-31T11:23:35.412+00:00Day 369: Hey, big nose!
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It was raining this
morning when we got up. My first job of the day was to set about
re-packing our bags – we'll be using the Nova Hotel as our base in
Kuching over the next week or so, so we can leave a big chunk of our
stuff here to save us having to lug it around. My cold has really
settled in now – searing pain at the back of my throat and a big
throbbing lump in my sinuses – so before we had breakfast we looked
around for a pharmacy or similar to get some cold and flu tablets.
Unfortunately, the best we could do was some paracetamol from a
7-Eleven. And the best we could do for breakfast was to go back to
our funny little alleyway place, where we got some won ton noodles and
a couple of pork buns.
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Afterwards, we went
back the room, where I finished up the packing. We had organised a
taxi through the hotel and it was waiting for us when we went
downstairs and dropped off our spare bags and checked out. Our
destination for today was Bako National Park, the oldest park in
Sarawak. It's located on a peninsula and is only accessible by boat.
The drive out to the pier and national park office only took a bit
less than an hour. After handing over our booking details and paying
our entry fees, we moved across to the boat desk, where we were given
two options – we could hire a boat just for us, or for quite a bit
less, we could just pay for four seats, but we would have to wait
until the boat filled up before we could leave. As it was
mid-morning, we assumed that no-one else would be going out now, so
were about to pay the higher fee when a middle-aged European couple
suddenly appeared, closely followed by another. We quickly switched
options and not long after were pulling on our life jackets and
climbing aboard a small boat with the first of the European couples. </div>
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The boat took us up
the river and then out into the open ocean. We turned right and
followed the coast for about a quarter of an hour and then the driver
turned us towards the beach. The boat started to slow down and then
stopped. The driver revved the motor and we went forward a bit more
and then stopped. It was low tide, he explained, and the water was
very shallow, so we were going to get stuck a few times before we got
to the beach – and would have to get out and wade the last part.
After a while, he signalled that this was as far as we would be going
and Kate and I took our shoes off and climbed into the warm water,
which reached up to our knees. Under a light rain we ferried the bags
across to where another boat was sitting exposed on the sand, but
when I went back to get the girls, I found the driver already
carrying Zoe to the beach. I grabbed the last of the bags and he
grabbed Sarah and soon we were all heading across the sand to the
park headquarters (we were lucky – the other boat, with the other
European couple aboard, got stuck well out to sea and was still out
there as we were sorting out our accommodation). </div>
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When we got to the
main building, we found the national parks office and showed them our
booking details. They gave us a map and some orientation information
but informed us that our room wasn't ready yet, so we put our bags in
the (hopefully) secure luggage room and wandered over to the
cafeteria, where we had some tea and cake and the girls watched some
Madagascar 2. While Kate and I sat out on the balcony sipping our tea
and eating somer pretty good banana cake, we heard a commotion nearby
and looked over to see a macaque (Boo! Hiss!) sitting in the middle
of a table quickly shovelling in food from a plate as two tourists
stood watching, mouths agape. Someone ran over and shooed the monkey
away and the tourists grabbed their plates and moved inside.
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By now it was
lunchtime for us, too, but we were keen to eat the food we had
brought with us, rather than eating the cafeteria food. However,
there were signs up all over the place forbidding the consumption of
'outside food' at the cafeteria tables, so we walked over to a small
shelter near the beach and constructed our sandwiches – Kate and
the girls keeping a sharp eye out for macaques the whole time. We
wolfed them down quickly, still scanning the surroundings for
marauding monkeys, and then headed out for a short walk.
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The trail, when we
found it, was along a raised wooden boardwalk, and took us through
some nice rainforest. Several sets of wooden stairs took us higher
and higher, and eventually we emerged on top of a rock outcrop, where
a little shelter had been set up. The view looked out over the beach
and national park headquarters, but we had eyes only for the
stunning little red and black bird that flew into a tree beside us.</div>
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We saw some nice
pitcher plants on the way back down and as we walked back towards the
cafeteria, I observed that the ground had been extensively dug up and
remarked to Kate that if we came out at night, there was every chance
that we would see the pigs responsible for the digging. By the time
we got back down to the office our room was ready, so we grabbed our
bags and set off along a path that ran adjacent to the beach. (It
turned out that we wouldn't have to wait as long as I had expected to
see the pigs - as we walked past the cafeteria, we saw a large
bearded pig standing, unafraid, on the grass.) Our room turned out
to be one of about six in a very basic concrete block. It consisted
of four beds, fan, toilet, sink, cold shower. As we were settling in,
Zoe called us outside and there on the grass was another of the pigs
– another big male that was soon joined by three smaller females. </div>
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The others were
feeling a bit tired, so they all lay down for a rest. But we were in
Borneo (!) and I was keen to stay out to see what I could see, so I
left them and continued down the path away from the headquarters.
After passing through a forested area, the path opened out and
crossed a bridge beneath which the tide was coming in, flooding a
muddy mangrove forest. I scanned the ground, the bushes and then the
trees – and did a double-take as I spotted a large, dark shape high
above me. This was what I had been most hoping to see here at Bako –
a proboscis monkey – and there was another, and another. There were
four of them lounging around taking it easy, looking like proper
couch potatoes with their round, distended bellies.</div>
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After taking some
photos I continued on, finding a raised wooden boardwalk through the
mangroves. There were several macaques on it, but thankfully they
scampered off without giving me too much grief, although a few of
them did hiss and bare their teeth as they left. I walked to the end
of the boardwalk and then turned around and headed back to the room.
When I got close to where I had seen the proboscis monkeys I heard a
noise and, rounding a corner, surprised a female quite low down,
close to the path. She quickly leapt away, crashing into the
undergrowth, before picking a spot to sit and eat some leaves not far
from where I was standing. </div>
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Back at the room, I
gathered the others up and we headed out for another walk through the
forest. We headed back past the headquarters and onto another
boardwalk, where we came across another of the bearded pigs – this
time a female accompanied by several very cute striped piglets. We
hadn't been on the boardwalk for long when we spotted another group
of tourists up ahead with a guide, all looking up into the trees. I
asked what they had found and they pointed to two brown shapes high
on one of the trunks – flying lemurs! Looking up through binoculars
and telephoto lens we discerned that one of the them had a baby that
was peering out from the protective embrace of its mother's 'wing'. </div>
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Continuing on, the
path headed uphill and then down again towards the coast. As the
closed rainforest gave way to a more open coastal forest and the
boardwalk petered out. Almost as soon as I left the walkway, I saw
and heard some movement in the trees to our left. I ran ahead to see
what it was and caught a glimpse of a proboscis monkey but by the
time the others had caught up, it had disappeared. We kept walking in
that direction and were soon rewarded to an awesome view of several
monkeys swinging from vines and leaping between trees. When they had
moved out of sight our attention switched to the water's edge, where
we noticed numerous small mudskippers skipping about on the mud.
Making our way back to the boardwalk, we found a path heading in the
opposite direction that eventually took us to a beach, where we saw
many more, larger mudskippers.
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On the way back, we walked along the beach and I took the others out to the boardwalk, where we saw a few more proboscis monkeys.</div>
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In the evening we
had dinner at the cafeteria and then headed back out onto the
boardwalk to do some spotlighting. On the way out, we didn't really
see very much, but on the way back, we spent a bit more time trying
to locate some of the frogs we could hear calling and soon enough, we
managed to find a few, including an interesting little red-brown
toad. While Zoe and I stopped to get some photos, Kate and Sarah went
on ahead to see if they could find some more. As they scanned the
vegetation, they were joined by an organised night walk group, which
was Sarah's cue to step into a gap between the wooden boards of the
boardwalk and get her foot stuck, leading to hysterics for both of
them as the tour group was forced to navigate around them. </div>
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When we got back to
the room the others went in for some cold showers and sleep while I
continued on to the mangrove boardwalk, were I came across some
geckoes and a constellation of fireflies in the mangroves, winking on
and off like Christmas lights.
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-25771923593208261992015-10-27T05:46:00.001+00:002015-10-27T05:46:24.971+00:00Day 368: Bound for Borneo
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I awoke to the
soothing tones of Kate's alarm at 4.40am, the unmistakable stabbing
pain of a nasty cold settling in in the posterior regions of my nasal
passages. We quickly got up and out and down and onto the street for
the short walk to the bus stop, where a slightly disreputable-looking
group of men sat around a table listening to the radio and making
desultory conversation, while something smouldered nearby to keep the
mosquitoes at bay. The bus ride to the airport was considerably
smoother than the journey had been going the other, and we were there
before 6am. We had some trouble figuring out where to check in for
our flight, but when we got to the counters, the queues were short
and soon enough our bags were on their way to the plane and we were
on our way through security.
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The flight to
Kuching in Sarawak, the more southern end of Malaysian Borneo, only
took about two hours, but oddly, despite the fact that it was a
domestic flight, we still had to go through immigration when we
arrived, fingerprinting and all. It all went nice and smoothly,
however, and we grabbed our bags from the carousel and grabbed a
voucher for a taxi and then settled back for the ride into Kuching
itself. The taxi dropped us at the Nova Hotel, where we checked in,
but then struggled with the newfangled electronic door key, which
stubbornly refused us ingress to our room. Once we got inside,
however, we were impressed with the size of said room and spent a few
moments regaining our composure before heading out again to see if we
could find the national parks office so we could book our
accommodation for the rest of our stay in Borneo.
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The walk took us
alongside the Sarawak River, which runs through the city, and before
long we had found the office and started making enquiries about
staying in Bako, Kubah and Guning Gading national parks. We were
aided in our efforts by a wonderfully patient and helpful gentleman,
who, unfortunately had clearly been lumbered with an incredibly
antiquated and laborious digital booking system. To make matters
worse, we were trying to juggle about ten nights of accommodation
spread over three national parks, two of which we could travel
between but one of which would require us to stay a night in Kuching
either before or after. Each potential combination of nights required
multiple key-strokes and switching between screens and I'm sure it
must have taken us at least an hour to come up with a viable
itinerary (an hour that ate significantly into the poor man's lunch
hour), but eventually we reached a satisfactory conclusion, paid all
of the required fees, and left the office clutching our booking
confirmations.</div>
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It was time for us
to have our lunch by now, so we headed up the road to a large
shopping mall to see what we could find. The guy at the office had
suggested we try the mall's food court, but it looked pretty grim, so
the girls got their wish as once again, we ate at the McDonald's
downstairs. On the way to lunch, we had passed the Textile Museum, at
which point Zoe had announced suddenly and uncharacteristically that
she 'loved museums', so after we had eaten, we returned there and
then made our way to the Natural History Museum (which was mostly
closed for renovation) and the Sarawak Museum (where most of the
rather moth-eaten natural history exhibits had been moved). </div>
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On the way home, we
walked through the Chinatown area. We noticed that there were
numerous rather trendy bars along the road we were taking and as we
were a bit hot and tired, we thought we would stop for a beer –
until we looked at the prices! A half pint of draught lager was about
12 ringgit, or US$3, which seemed just a little extortionate, so we
kept trudging back towards the hotel. By the time we got there, we
were unacceptably parched, so we tried another, less trendy looking
bar across the road. Unfortunately, the beer there was just as
expensive, but we bit the bullet and Kate and I shared a pint. We
then visited a supermarket to stock up on a few essentials ahead of
our national park stays before going back to the hotel room to relax
for a few hours.</div>
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In the evening we
went in search of somewhere nice for dinner, but all of the
restaurants we looked at looked less than appealing. In our
meandering, we stumbled across a covered passageway between two
buildings where tables and chairs had been set up. The area was
really buzzing, with almost all of the tables filled with groups of
diners, many with large buckets full of ice and beer. On one side of
the passageway was a sort of café, serving drinks and Chinese food
from a buffet, and on the other side was a collection of carts manned
by individual vendors specialising in particular types of food. This
looked perfect, so we sat down, ordered some remarkably cheap beers
(we later learned that they were actually cheaper than if you bought
them from the supermarket) and ordered a variety of very tasty noodle
dishes from a few of the carts. </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-87585323082836627242015-10-24T07:45:00.001+01:002015-10-24T07:45:30.300+01:00Day 367: Another hazy day
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We all had a nice
sleep-in this morning, before returning to last night's restaurant
for a breakfast of good old roti canai (for Kate and I, that is –
Sarah had a yoghurt from 7-11 and Zoe had some muesli bars; both
girls are definitely starting to struggle with the constant onslaught
of Asian food). Then it was back to the room to try, with mixed
results, to arrange our accommodation for Borneo. For lunch, the
girls insisted on McDonald's, but I couldn't face it, so I went into
Chinatown and got a huge portion of barbecued pork, roast duck and
rice for just ten ringgit – the equivalent of about US$2.50. On the
way, we checked out the airport bus situation. The bus stop is in a
pretty random spot outside the McDonald's and isn't signposted in any
way, but we found a guy sitting at a table under a sunshade who had a
timetable, so we're pretty sure we know where to get it and at what
time. The haze from the fires in Indonesia has been so bad that some of the local schools have been shutting down. Our hotel has responded to the problem by handing giving away free face masks. </div>
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Back at the hotel,
we had another go at the Borneo accommodation. We want to stay inside
three national parks and although there is a special online booking
form, it's not very user-friendly. We tried to use Skype to call the
booking central office, but couldn't get through, so it looks as
though we'll have to drop by the office when we arrive in Kuching
tomorrow. In the evening we went back to Chinatown for an evening of
skewers – starting with some satay from a roadside stall and then
moving on to our regular restaurant. Afterwards, we split up – I
went into the big cheap-knock-off market to get some underwear and a
power bank while the others went to McDonald's for an ice cream and
then back to the room. Our neighbours appeared to be hosting another
party, so Sarah rang down to the front desk to complain. Not long
after, one of the hotel staff appeared at our door to inform us that
he had asked them to keep the noise down, which seemed to do the
trick, thankfully, as we have an appallingly early start tomorrow. </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-2422242278621261272015-10-22T07:34:00.003+01:002015-10-22T07:34:49.563+01:00Day 366: Like it or Lumpur it
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The alarm went off
at 6am this morning and we packed up and went down to a place in the
main, upper part of town for breakfast, sitting and waiting for a
while as the roti canai guy warmed up the hotplate. We then walked up
to the car park, where we thought the bus back to Jerantut made its
pick-ups, but were told to go back down into town. The expected
departure time of 8.15am came and went and it wasn't until 9.15am
that we were able to climb aboard the bus. An hour later we arrived
in Jerantut, and discovered that the next bus to KL didn't leave
until 4pm. We met a couple of French guys who were also trying to get
back to KL and between us we managed to cobble together a new plan -
we would catch a bus to another town, Temerloh, from which KL buses
left every hour or so. We only had to wait about half an hour for the
rather rickety bus to leave and were in Temerloh about an hour after
that, but when we got into the bus station, we discovered that
tickets had been selling fast for the multiple coaches to KL and the
earliest we could get on was at 3.30pm (the French guys got on a
slightly earlier bus as there was only the two of them).
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It was about
lunchtime by now so we headed over to the local Pizza Hut for a
slightly dispiriting meal and to plug our various electrical
components into the power point conveniently located adjacent to our
booth. The journey to KL took about three hours, taking us through
some torrential rain and abysmal traffic. Then it was up the stairs
to the sky train and back to our familiar neighbourhood, where we
trudged down to Hotel 99, where we had stayed the last time we were
in KL. Everyone was looking forward to a soft bed, air-con and some
HBO, but when we turned the TV on, it was just showing a collection
of fuzzy local channels. The horror! Kate went down to complain and
soon the barefoot tech guy was reconnecting us. The joy!</div>
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For dinner we
decided to take a break from Chinatown and walked down the main road
past the hospital to a place that did a mixture of Indian and local
dishes – and had come highly recommended on TripAdvisor. It took us
a while to find it – we walked straight past it the first time –
but when we sat down, the staff were incredibly friendly, welcoming
and helpful, and we had a nice meal of curries and naan. Back at the
hotel, our neighbours appeared to be hosting some sort of party, with
people regularly coming and going and bad local pop music playing
until after midnight. </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-90015726531999471272015-10-20T03:57:00.000+01:002015-10-20T03:57:14.088+01:00Day 365: Happy anniversary!
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At breakfast this
morning – back at Mama Chop again – we got to talking to a guy
from KL, now living in Munich, who was in town trying to help the
locals sort out their restaurants (he was some sort of culinary
consultant). He got a nice illustration of the sort of thing he
needed to fix when the staff announced, after our roti canai had been
served, that they had run out of the curry sauce that they normally
served with it. We got another, similar sort of illustration a bit
later when we went to buy our lunch ingredients at the minimart –
again, we could only find tuna mayonnaise, but we also couldn't find
anyone selling sliced bread that was still in date. </div>
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All loaded up, we
got the boat across to the national park and then, after paying our
entry fees, we took the same path as yesterday afternoon, but this
time kept going past the swimming area. As usual we saw plenty of
squirrels, but this time we saw little else. We did, however, catch
up to the English girl from yesterday, and walked with her the last
part of the way to another wildlife viewing hide, set up on a
hillside. It was obviously built to house overnight guests, with a
bathroom and bunks, but it had been left to decay slowly - the toilet
was disconnected and the bunks didn't look much like somewhere you
would want to sleep. </div>
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We sat for a while chatting to the English girl
and eating our lunch. We then walked back to the little riverside
beach for a swim and then went back to our rooms for some
air-conditioned quiet time. For dinner, we returned to the same
restaurant as last night – known as Family Restaurant – where we
had a rather low-key celebration of the anniversary of our first
leaving Winchester on the first leg of our big adventure. After
dinner, we went back across the river and Sarah and I went out
spotlighting along the boardwalk, but returned without having seen
anything of note.</div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-84122864783311524712015-10-19T11:06:00.000+01:002015-10-19T11:06:01.410+01:00Day 364: That's no mouse, dear
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In the morning we
went out looking for some ingredients for lunch, but although we
looked in several minimarts, the only tuna we could find came with
'mayonnaise', so tuna mayonnaise it was. We had some breakfast at
Mama Chop (where they were watching the same war movie as yesterday)
and then looked around for a way to get across the river and to the
national park (as an aside, '<i>taman negara</i>' means 'national
park' in Malaysian, so Taman Negara National Park is National Park
National Park). We quickly spotted one of the ferry guys and climbed
aboard for the journey, which took about a minute and cost only one
ringgit each – the equivalent of US$0.25. After disembarking, we
climbed the steep stairs up the bank and then walked over to the
national park office, where we paid the very reasonable entry fee
(including a special payment to cover the use of my camera) and got a
map. We then oriented ourselves and head off towards the canopy
walkway along a rather fancy boardwalk. </div>
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We saw our first
wildlife soon after setting out – one of the ubiquitous squirrels.
Not long after, we heard a noise in the trees and stopped to
investigate and saw... another squirrel. But then Zoe pointed further
up the way and said, 'Mouse deer!' And sure enough, not far from the
boardwalk were three tiny little deer that were apparently relatively
unconcerned about us, so we got to stand and watch them for some
time. </div>
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Continuing on, we
came to a large hide overlooking an open, grassy area. It was
occupied by a lone young English girl, with whom we chatted for a
while. As we talked, Zoe spotted a medium-sized monitor making its
way through the undergrowth and I saw, yes, a couple of squirrels.
Back on the boardwalk, things took an upward turn and we sweated our
way up a fairly substantial hillside before arriving at the canopy
walkway, where we shelled out another fee and then waited in line to
climb the stairs up to a series of suspension bridges strung between
tall trees. Access was very strictly controlled to ensure that no
more than ten people were on the bridge at a time, but some of those
taking to the trees were of a nervous disposition, so even when we got onto the walkway, progress was
slow. </div>
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Unfortunately, the
walkway exit was at the bottom of the hill we had just climbed and
the trail we wanted to take next was at the top of the hill, so we
had to ascend all over again. Our destination was the top of one of
the larger hills in the park and many, many, many stairs and a litre
or more of sweat later, we finally made it to the summit. When we got
to the lookout on the far side, we stopped for a not very nice lunch
(suffice to say none of us fans of tinned 'tuna mayonnaise), but
didn't spend very long looking at the view, as the haze from the
Indonesian forest fires was cloaking the whole area rather obscuring
things. A large group of young local guys had arrived at the much the
same time as us and they told us that the walk down the other side
was closed, which was a shame as we had been planning to do a loop,
but instead had to retrace our steps. Soon enough, however, we were
back at the national park office, where we bought a bit more water at
the minimart and then headed down another trail – this time to a
swimming area on a tributary of the river that runs by the park
entrance. While that main river is murky with sediment, this one was
clear but stained dark brown with dissolved tannin. We had a nice
swim and then the girls chased fish around in the shallows for a
while. </div>
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Back at the park
office, we bumped into the birder from the Midlands and he told us
about the tame tapir that apparently comes in to the resort that's
attached the national park office. So, after dinner at one of the
floating restaurants back on the other side of the river, we crossed
back over and started looking around for a large two-tone
prehensile-nosed mammal... without success. As the tapir seemed to be
a no-show, Sarah and I went out along the boardwalk to do some
spotlighting. We heard what sounded like a large frog calling from
some distance away, but when I had a bit of a go at locating it, my
torch beam quite quickly fell on what was indeed a large frog, but
calling from what turned out to be not very far away at all. </div>
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When we got back to
the others, we decided first off to go back out again as a group, but
then Zoe suddenly decided that she didn't want to participate and
drifted off back to the resort. As we debated what to do next, she
suddenly reappeared, breathless with excitement to tell us that the
tapir had appeared. The backstory here, as near as we could
determine, was that a pair of young tapirs had been caught as babies
and reared around the resort. The female had recently died, but the
male still came in pretty regularly to be fed. A crowd of people had
formed around it and a staff member made his way through the throng
and led the big mammal to a patch of grass, where he upended a bucket
full of fruit. The tapir quickly got stuck in and as he ate, his
unfeasibly large penis, which almost reached the ground, kept
twitching dramatically, eliciting fits of giggles from the girls.
With the three of them engrossed by the large mammal in their midst,
I had no takers when I suggested another spotlighting foray, so I
headed out alone. </div>
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As I set off, I saw
another light approaching and soon met with a young, tall Germanic
guy. I asked him if he had seen anything and he described a strange
small mammal he hadn't been able to identify and showed me some
pictures on his camera of a neat gecko he had also spotted. I bid him
farewell and headed out along the boardwalk. Before long I saw some
movement ahead that resolved into a small, lightly coloured mammal.
It saw me and freaked out, running away and under the boardwalk. I
managed to keep pace with it but had trouble discerning what it
actually was. Finally, however, I managed to get close enough for a
good look and saw spines among its fur. I tried to take a photo but
the camera's auto-focus stymied my efforts, focusing on some plants
in front of the animal, but even with the blurring, it was clear that
the animal was a type of porcupine – later ID-ed as an Asiatic
brush-tailed porcupine. I continued on, all the way to our swimming
spot from earlier in the day but didn't see anything. We had been
warned that the final boat back across the river left at 10pm and as
it was now well past 9pm I turned around and headed back. On the way,
I came across a large, slender snake beside the boardwalk (a type of
cat-eyed snake), but struggled, juggling the torch and camera and
conscious of the ticking clock, to get a decent photo of it. I made
it back in plenty of time, however, and we all jumped aboard the boat
for the short ride back. </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-6192568615850925092015-10-14T08:34:00.000+01:002015-10-14T08:34:13.184+01:00Day 363: A hole by a river
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I was up with the
alarm this morning and packed the bags while the others slept. I then
got them all up and we hit the streets, walking the relatively short
distance to the sky train station, where we bought our tokens from a
vending machine and then passed through the barriers and up onto the
platform. It was only five stops to our destination and we soon found
our way to the helpfully signposted bus station. It was slightly
trickier to then figure out where to buy our tickets from, but we
eventually found that too and joined the small queue of people
waiting for the counter to open. While we waited, Zoe and I set off
to see if we could find something for breakfast. We ended up at a
little Indian place where they made our old standby – roti canai –
and got two with egg and two without, and a little bag of some sort
of curry sauce. These we took back to the queue and scarfed down on
the pavement while Kate got our tickets. We were just licking our
fingers when the bus pulled up and we all piled on board the 8am bus
to Jeruntut. </div>
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About three hours
later, the bus dropped us in the bus station, where we again set
about trying to figure out how to get to Kuala Tahan, the little
village located adjacent to Taman Negara. Kate's enquiries elicited
the information that the next local bus didn't leave until 1pm. As we
debated what to do we were approached by two local guys bearing
information sheets who wanted to tell us all about their minibuses
and tours to Taman Negara. We fobbed them off, but after chatting to
a young Belgian girl who was on her way back from Kuala Tahan (and,
incidentally, on her honeymoon) and who vouched for the credentials
of the tour guys, we agreed to get in their van. We thought we were
then on our way to Kuala Tahan, but the driver started asking us
about getting some lunch and/or groceries. At first we agreed to his
suggestion that we went to a Chinese restaurant for lunch, but then
we decided that we were still full enough from breakfast, so suggested
that we got going instead. At this, the driver turned around and started
to take us back where we had come from. Our hearts dropped, but it
turned out that he was taking us to the tour company office to transfer us
to another van. We were then concerned that we were going to have to
wait until 1pm for the new van, but we barely had time to
finish the ice creams we had bought when the van pulled up beside us.
We climbed aboard and discovered that we were to be the only
passengers, so we sat back and enjoyed the chauffeur service.
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The (ridiculously,
recklessly rapid) drive took us through endless oil palm plantations
and a sawmill surrounded by some enormous logs of beautiful dark
rainforest timber. So depressing. We reached Kuala Tanah in about an
hour and the driver would have dropped us at our hotel but as we
hadn't booked anything, he dropped us in the car park instead. Then,
while Zoe and I stayed with the bags, Kate and Sarah set off to see
if they could find us somewhere to stay. It was very hot and humid
and the accommodation on offer proved to be both basic and expensive,
but after some time, they returned with the news that they had found
somewhere within fairly easy walking distance. The somewhe<span id="goog_111247251"></span><span id="goog_111247252"></span>re they had
found was a couple of rooms in a single-storey bungalow – bed,
bathroom and, crucially, air-con.
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We were hungry by
now so we headed out to see what we could find for (a very late) lunch.
The majority of the restaurants in Kuala Tanah are located on floating platforms
on the river that separates the town from the national park. We went
to the first of these - Mama Chop – and had a decent meal while the
staff sat and watched a war movie. We then went for a bit of a walk
around the town, which was basic to say the least – obviously set
up to service the tourist traffic that the national park generates
with as little thought and effort as possible. </div>
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We went back to the
rooms to regenerate in the air-con and then headed out again to look
for somewhere to have dinner. We ended up at another of the floating
restaurants, choosing the one that appeared to be the most popular.
This wasn't a particularly successful strategy. When Kate went up to
the little window next to the kitchen to order, the first three things
she ordered weren't available and when my noodles arrived, they were
so awful that I couldn't eat more than a few mouthfuls. In the
meantime, we chatted to a couple of hard-core birders at an adjacent table - a softly spoken
guy from the Midlands who has apparently seen more than 6,000 bird
species, and Andrew, his very well-qualified local guide. After
dinner we stopped off at a mini-mart to get some beer (this is
essentially a dry town, with alcohol only available from a very
limited number of places) and tom yam peanuts.</div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-48203883622006909332015-10-13T14:01:00.003+01:002015-10-13T14:01:36.163+01:00Day 362: Another day in the big city
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I woke up just
before the alarm went off at 6.20am and went downstairs to enquire
about getting our rooms for another night. We didn't come to a
concrete decision about what to do today so we hedged our bets –
alarm in case we decided to go to Taman Negara, enquiries at the
front desk in case we wanted to stay. The woman on reception told me
that rooms were available but booking the rooms direct would cost
more, so I should do it online. But when I got back to the room and
looked into it with Kate, the price was still more than we had paid
before, so we still didn't have a decision. However, Kate did a
quick search and found a cheap room two hotels down so she booked
that and we packed up, checked out and walked down the road to the
new place.
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We had lunch at
McDonald's and then walked back to the hotel, where Kate and I spent
the afternoon taking turns updating our CVs and I applied for a job
while the girls watched a series of wildly age-inappropriate movies
on HBO. We went back to the skewer place for dinner and then Kate
went on a toiletry-buying spree while I refreshed our cash reserves
at a nearby ATM. </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-15436539891099823462015-10-13T06:14:00.001+01:002015-10-13T06:14:33.650+01:00Day 361: Back in the big city
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The alarm went off
at 6am this morning and we were packed and downstairs for breakfast a
bit after 7am (the packing process complicated by a dearth of plastic
bags, which had been scattered around the adjacent roofs by
yesterday's marauding macaques). Just after 8am we set off up the
path to the main road, the owner of the Garden Inn pottering along
behind us on a motorbike. When we got to the road he ushered us into
a minivan and bid us farewell and we embarked on a high speed run to
the airport. Not that we were in any hurry that we knew about –
just that we were being transported by another crazy Southeast Asian
driver. He wasn't even going to let the terrible traffic in Medan
slow him down, slipping out and into a series of narrow potholed rat
runs to avoid the worst of it. </div>
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We arrived at the
airport at about 12pm – too early to check in, as it turns out, so
we went downstairs to see if we could find something to eat. We ended
up getting some burgers at a Wendy's – my first and hopefully my
last. We sat on a skanky sofa and ate some pretty dire burgers as
flies buzzed around us. We followed this up with a visit to Dunkin'
Donuts – as though we were on a tour of the worst that American
fast food has to offer. </div>
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By now check-in had
opened up for our flight so we got rid of our bags and went through
immigration and to our gate. The flight only took 50 minutes and we
were soon descending through a hazy sky over an endless expanse of
oil palms as we approached KL. After clearing immigration and
grabbing our bags, we hopped onto a bus and into more bad traffic.
Once again we had a resourceful driver who made use of every trick at
his disposal to get us to our destination, including speeding down
the hard shoulder and going off the freeway at each exit and then
straight back on again to bypass the stalled traffic.
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When we finally got
into downtown KL we spotted our hotel, which Kate had booked on the
basis of it being next to the bus station, which we also spotted on
the other side of the road. We were thus understandably distressed
when the bus kept on going straight past the hotel and the bus
station, but then, thankfully, it looped back around and dropped us
off not too far away, leaving us with a relatively short walk. We had
had to book two rooms, but when we got up to them we found that we
had been given connecting rooms, which we opened up into what then
felt like a luxury suite.
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It was dinner time
by now so we went back downstairs and headed out to see what we could
find. First, however, we visited the bus station across road to see
about getting some tickets for tomorrow's trip to Taman Negara
National Park. It took us a little while to navigate the warren of
shops, restaurants and waiting areas, but eventually we found the
ticket office area, where there were numerous counters selling
tickets for a variety of bus companies and to a plethora of
destinations – but not ours. Of course the bus station we need is
actually located elsewhere, but thankfully it's on the train line and
there's a station not far away, so we should be able to get there
with relative ease.
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When we got back
outside, Sarah started angling for the Nando's that we had seen on
our way to the hotel, but we were close to Chinatown so it was there
that we headed. Walking down the road, we passed a number of
different street stalls and were eventually drawn to a place with a
big display of meat, seafood and vegetables on skewers. There were
two different options – you could get them grilled or cook them
yourself in a hotpot of boiling water located in the middle of the
metal tables set up on the pavement. We naturally went for the former
option and enjoyed a really nice and really cheap meal. We then had a
bit of walk around the cheap-knock-off market across the road before
heading back to the hotel, where we spent some time puzzling over
what to do tomorrow. Kate has been sneezing all day and it looks a
lot like she's coming down with something and today's journey took a
lot out of us, and being back in a nice, comfy hotel room, with hot
water and cable TV has been so nice that we're tempted to postpone
our trip to Taman Negara and spend another day in KL... </div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-81684879467997462322015-10-13T03:54:00.004+01:002015-10-13T03:54:52.537+01:00Day 360: Great! More apes!
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We all went down to
the Garden Inn restaurant at around 7.15am this morning. Zoe had some
breakfast with me and then Sinar and I headed down the path to get
Julie and Tony. Together we crossed the bridge, but this time we
headed left. As we walked, Sinar handed around a bottle of 'brown
sugar' – what I think was fresh palm juice, a lovely, sweet,
slightly nutty drink. We headed up a small set of stairs where a
couple of young locals pointed out another small juvenile viper, this
one a bit bigger than the one that has set up camp opposite Green
Hill. Sinar told us that the locals call these month snakes because
once they've found a spot they like, they'll often stay there for a
month.
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We passed by the
under-renovation restaurant at the eco-lodge and through a rubber
plantation and then into the jungle. The gradient was significantly
less brutal than it had been when I went out with the others a few
days ago. I was very slightly nervous about the whole orangutan
situation – having all but promised Tony and Julie that they would
see some, and recommended Sinar to them, I was now a bit concerned
that things wouldn't turn out. But of course I needn't have worried,
as we came across our first orangutan (with attendant baby) pretty
early on. There was a troop of macaques hanging around, too, and
several of them bared their teeth at me as I moved around trying to
find good angles from which to photograph the two apes. </div>
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The day then went
much the same as my previous day out. We saw some white-handed
gibbons, lots of leaf monkeys, a great argus, a tortoise and a total of nine orangutans.
Thankfully we didn't see Mina, but what we did see was a guide
hurrying down the path with a bandage around his leg – and
apparently a few Mina-inflicted puncture wounds underneath it. We
also saw a lovely little tree shrew with a big bushy auburn tail. It
had obviously found something very appetising right beside the trail
and kept darting over to dig it up, then losing its nerve and
bouncing away, before returning to have another go. Sadly, despite
waiting around for several iterations of this nervous dance, I never
managed to get a decent photo of it. </div>
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As the afternoon
wore on, Sinar offered us the same two options for returning to Bukit
Lawang – the quick way across the river or the slow way back
through the forest. This time we opted for the former and soon found
ourselves tackling a very steep descent to the river. When we finally
got there, Sinar led us to a slightly rickety contraption beside the
river – essentially a wooden seat hanging from a rope and pulley
system set up between two wooden platforms, one on either river bank.
Julie, Tony and I took turns being hauled across the river on the
little seat and then Sinar and his assistant put their bags on their
shoulders and forded the river. It had begun to rain as we began to
make our crossing and by the time the guides made theirs it was
properly pouring. Up in the platform, Sinar pulled a couple of
plastic bags from his rucksack and double-bagged all of our daypacks
inside them. He then handed the load to his assistant and we all set
off downriver, very quickly going from sweat-damp to completely
rain-drenched. </div>
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When we got back to
the Garden Inn I spotted Kate and Sarah up on the lovely dry balcony.
I grabbed my daypack, said goodbye to the others and then went up to
the bungalow, where we shared animal stories. They'd had another run
in with the macaques, which had got into the room again and scattered
our bag of spare plastic bags all over the place. When Kate and the
girls had returned to the house, there was a group of monkeys on the
stairs outside that had stood their ground and hissed at them. Zoe
was so distressed that she ran back down the stairs, sat in the
restaurant and refused to come back out until I got back.
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I got changed out of
my sodden clothes and we went down to the Garden Inn's restaurant for
some beer and chips, before walking up to the Jungle Inn for dinner.
While we ate, it started to rain again - really, really heavily
again. Every time it seemed to be easing off, and we started to think
about going out into it, it would suddenly regain its strength and we
would settle back in to wait. The staff took this as a perfect excuse
to pull out the guitar and start massacring a few more bad songs,
right at the end of our table. Eventually, I couldn't bear it any
longer and headed out into the downpour to get our umbrellas, which
we had of course left back at the bungalow. I got as far as Sam's and
noticed a large umbrella hanging up at the entrance to the
restaurant. I grabbed it and asked if it was okay if I borrowed it
and then returned to the bungalow to get ours – and then we all
finally made it back to our beds.</div>
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-18197552449514844032015-10-11T16:12:00.001+01:002015-10-11T16:12:54.376+01:00Day 359: Fish feast<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We were up quite
late this morning and eventually made our way to Sam's for breakfast.
While we ate, we were chatting to a trio of young French travellers
at an adjacent table when one of them spotted a large monitor walking
along the rocks on the other side of the river. When we took a closer
look, we realised that it was incredibly fat. It was later joined by
another equally corpulent varanid – they had obviously been gorging
themselves on fish left stranded by the raging river yesterday and
last night.
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We had a very
leisurely breakfast, sitting watching the lizards and using the wifi
– we didn't end up leaving until almost 11am. We then went for a
swim – just me and girls. The level of the river had dropped
significantly, although it was still higher than before. The water
was greeny grey, rather than the brown it had been yesterday evening
and colder than it had been pre-torrent. It was also moving quite a
bit faster. </div>
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Before lunch, Zoe
announced that she was craving banana fritters, so she and Kate
walked back down to the other end of the village to get some. For
lunch we went to the Jungle Inn, where we chatted to Julie and Tony
from southern Sydney. She speaks fluent Indonesian – indeed she
teaches it - but what particularly got my attention was the news that
they were looking to do a one-day trek tomorrow. I've been trying to
organise another day in the forest with Sinar, but it would be far
too expensive to go alone and he hadn't been approached by anyone
else. We sang Sinar's praises and told them how to go about hiring
him and they seemed to be convinced.
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After lunch we went
for another swim in the river and then went back to the room for a
rest. Kate and I were sitting out on the balcony reading when a
macaque appeared and climbed up onto the railing. I tried to scare it
off but it just bared its teeth at me and held its ground; a second
attempt had the same effect. I didn't want it to think that it could
intimidate us, so I made a more concerted attempt, jumping up and
waving my cap at it and it finally jumped off the balcony and away
over the adjacent roofs. </div>
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Later in the
afternoon we went for another swim. Kate left first, heading back to
the house, while I swam with a Danish guy and his young son, and the
girls played among the rocks on the river bank. I eventually joined
her, leaving the girls alone with their game. On the way back, I met
Sinar, who told me that he had spoken to the Australian couple and we
were all on for tomorrow.
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In the evening, we
all went to the Jungle Inn for some beer and chips. As we ate, Kate
spotted the guy from whom we had bought the sweet sticky rice a few
days ago and sent the girls down to get some more from him. They
returned with the news that he was all out, but he had some rice
balls left. Kate ordered some and the girls returned with some
odd-looking spheres that proved to be delicious if disconcertingly
coloured.
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SGKZhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14649112358560408694noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1982298833297779625.post-4207582404785817752015-10-10T15:31:00.001+01:002015-10-10T15:31:41.491+01:00Day 358: River rising<div style="line-height: 150%; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We were up late
again this morning and eventually sloped down to Sam's for breakfast.
When we got back to the bungalow, there were monkeys on our balcony
and I'm pretty sure a few of them got in next door.</div>
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Kate had heard that
there was a market on in the nearest town – a place called Borohok
– today, and of course, we love a market (well, Kate and I do,
anyway), so it was to the market we headed. This involved walking to
the end of the tourist section of Bukit Lawang and into the more
local section. We asked a few times for directions to the bus station
and were pointed the same way each time but although we walked
steadily, we saw no sign of it. We were starting to get pretty hot
when a tuk-tuk driver pulled over and asked us where we were going.
When we mentioned the bus station, he said that it was at least
another kilometre, so as the cost of getting his tuk-tuk all the way
to Bohorok wasn't that much more than getting the bus, we all piled
in. The tuk-tuks here are elaborate contraptions a bit like a covered
side-car - Kate and I got a nice comfy seat, but the girls had to sit
on some less padded spots. On the way, we passed a spot where a lot
of men had gathered around some absolutely foul-smelling bulbous
blocks of greyish-white material. When we asked the driver what was
going on, he explained that it was a raw rubber market. </div>
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We soon arrived in
Bohorok and headed into the market – a proper local affair with a
mixture of food and clothing. Zoe was very grumpy as she is much less
enamoured of local markets than we are - she's often pinched and
prodded and isn't too keen on some of the smells that emanate from
them. Sarah was excited because there were people selling a type of
big, green seed pods that we've been seeing since Laos but never got
around to trying. She enquired about the price at one stall and was
given a pod to try. I opened it up with some difficulty and got a
seed out, but when I bit into it, I found it unbearably bitter. Kate
and Sarah were more appreciative, but even they found it difficult to
eat more than a few seeds and we ended up giving half of the pod to a
small child. </div>
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When we had
exhausted the market, we walked into the town itself – what little
there was of it. There isn't an ATM in Bukit Lawang and we're running
a bit low on cash, so we stopped off at Bohorok's only ATM and
withdrew another enormous wad of bills. We then went to a small
supermarket to get some toiletries and snacks, and to a small
clothing store to get some new t-shirts and a new pair of
thongs/flip-flops for Sarah. It was around lunchtime by then, but we
couldn't see anywhere to eat that didn't look a bit scarily local, so
we jumped in the back of a van with a bunch of local women and
children for the ride back to Bukit Lawang. </div>
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On the way back to
our end of the village, Zoe got some banana fritters and Sarah got a
dress. We then had some lunch at the Jungle Inn. It started to rain a
little as we walked back to the bungalow (which the macaques had been
into again), where we went out on the balcony to read. At one point,
as I stood talking to Kate, I glanced down at the river and could
scarcely believe my eyes. Gone was the lovely clear waterway of only
moments before, replaced by a raging, roiling, caramel-coloured
torrent. The small amount of rain that had fallen on us was obviously
the outer margin of a much heavier downpour farther upstream and as
we watched, the river crept higher and higher until it reached from
bank to bank and the exposed river pebbles we were used to seeing
were all submerged. We went down to take a closer look and the girls
discovered that some of the young local guys were using nets to scoop
fish from the maelstrom. That was the last we saw of them for a while
as they joined in the grabbing of the little fish that the net guys
emptied onto the river bank.
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