I was awoken early
by a strong wind rattling the windows and looked out to see a pretty
miserable, rainy day – not something we've encountered that often
thus far, thankfully. After packing the car once more, we drove up
the hill behind Maori, over a pass and were greeted by a spectacular
view of Mount Vesuvius and Naples. We had planned to climb the
volcano, but although it had stopped raining, it was still pretty
windy, so we figured it probably wasn't a great idea (we had also had
numerous people do their best to dissuade us from making the climb
over the past few days, each for a different reason) so we headed to
Pompeii instead.
And we were really
glad we did. The site is truly impressive - incredibly extensive and,
in places, just jaw-droppingly well preserved. Although there were
quite a few people there – including several large Asian tour
groups and what looked like a big art class – the place is so big,
that we were often alone as we walked in and among the buildings. We
stopped and chatted to an Australian couple – both nurses – who
were travelling around Europe en route to a surprise visit to their
son, who was living in Helsinki and had just had a baby. On their
advice, we found a large display cabinet that contained the plaster
casts of an entire family killed in the eruption (one family member
had a lizard sitting on its shoulder). A little later, we found a
small group of people crowding around the entrance of a small
building, getting a descriptive talk form a guide. We made our way
through them and then hurried the girls back out – turns out the
building was one of Pompeii's brothels and was decorated with a
collection of rather explicit paintings on the walls.
Heading back to the
entrance, we discovered that the on-site cafe was a branch of
Autogrill – a ubiquitous Italian fast-food chain that makes very
good pizza. As we were all a bit peckish by this point, we stopped to
partake in a slice each – with impeccable timing, as the heavens
opened up not long after we sat down.
Back on the road, we
drove up into the mountains and into the region of Abruzzo. Stopping
for petrol and some groceries, we got a bit of shock when we stepped
out of the car as the increase altitude had brought a serious
decrease in temperature. At around dusk we arrived at the tiny
hill-side village of Roccacasale, where we met Mark, who was renting
us his lovely little house. Once again, we had a bit of a steep hike
up from the car, although thankfully it wasn't as bad as the one in
Ostuni.
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