After breakfast, we
sat in the air conditioned comfort of our room and the girls did some
schoolwork while I transcribed my interviews from our time in
Mongolia. We had lunch in our little alleyway and then Kate and Zoe
walked back to the Laos embassy to pick up our passports while I
finished transcribing the interviews and Sarah read her book.
When they got back,
we went out for beers, pork skewers and cards on the street corner
and then walked up to the weekly night market (clothing not food,
sadly). As we walked among the stalls, a pair of police officers
walked up, one carrying some 'official documents', the other a large
sack, and I watched as the first grabbed armfuls of clothes from one
of the stalls and stuffed them into the sack. A bit further on, we
came upon another contingent who were on pole duty. A new edict had
obviously come down from on high that poles should protrude from the
stall by no more than X centimetres and these guys were removing any
offending bamboo poles and cutting the ends off the metal ones with a
hacksaw. The amusing thing was that they were only walking down one
side of the stalls, which were open on both sides, so the poles on
the other side were left to protrude in peace (not to mention the
fact that Hanoi's streets are just a collection of death traps –
bumping your head on a market-stall pole is the least of our
worries). We managed to find a few things to buy for Zoe - some new
sunglasses (one of arms broke off her other pair a few days ago) and
a red t-shirt (the one we bought in Pingyao was white when we bought
it...). As we walked, we grazed on pork skewers in place of a proper
meal.
On the way home, we
stopped in to a shop near the hostel and Kate tried on some dresses.
The utterly humourless staff were comically lethargic, just dripping with retail ennui
and studied indifference. Attempts to haggle were met with an abrupt
'No discount', while queries about other sizes received an even more
curt, 'No more'. Of course, nothing had a price on it and when asked
how much things cost, the staff would hold the offending dress up for
the woman at the counter, who would bark out a seemingly randomly
arrived at price. No, we didn't buy anything.
When we got back to
the hostel, the street had been closed off and a bit further down the
road, a stage had been set up where there was some traditional
singing and dancing going on.
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