Saturday 10 October 2015

Day 358: River rising

We were up late again this morning and eventually sloped down to Sam's for breakfast. When we got back to the bungalow, there were monkeys on our balcony and I'm pretty sure a few of them got in next door.
 





 Kate had heard that there was a market on in the nearest town – a place called Borohok – today, and of course, we love a market (well, Kate and I do, anyway), so it was to the market we headed. This involved walking to the end of the tourist section of Bukit Lawang and into the more local section. We asked a few times for directions to the bus station and were pointed the same way each time but although we walked steadily, we saw no sign of it. We were starting to get pretty hot when a tuk-tuk driver pulled over and asked us where we were going. When we mentioned the bus station, he said that it was at least another kilometre, so as the cost of getting his tuk-tuk all the way to Bohorok wasn't that much more than getting the bus, we all piled in. The tuk-tuks here are elaborate contraptions a bit like a covered side-car - Kate and I got a nice comfy seat, but the girls had to sit on some less padded spots. On the way, we passed a spot where a lot of men had gathered around some absolutely foul-smelling bulbous blocks of greyish-white material. When we asked the driver what was going on, he explained that it was a raw rubber market. 
 



We soon arrived in Bohorok and headed into the market – a proper local affair with a mixture of food and clothing. Zoe was very grumpy as she is much less enamoured of local markets than we are - she's often pinched and prodded and isn't too keen on some of the smells that emanate from them. Sarah was excited because there were people selling a type of big, green seed pods that we've been seeing since Laos but never got around to trying. She enquired about the price at one stall and was given a pod to try. I opened it up with some difficulty and got a seed out, but when I bit into it, I found it unbearably bitter. Kate and Sarah were more appreciative, but even they found it difficult to eat more than a few seeds and we ended up giving half of the pod to a small child. 












When we had exhausted the market, we walked into the town itself – what little there was of it. There isn't an ATM in Bukit Lawang and we're running a bit low on cash, so we stopped off at Bohorok's only ATM and withdrew another enormous wad of bills. We then went to a small supermarket to get some toiletries and snacks, and to a small clothing store to get some new t-shirts and a new pair of thongs/flip-flops for Sarah. It was around lunchtime by then, but we couldn't see anywhere to eat that didn't look a bit scarily local, so we jumped in the back of a van with a bunch of local women and children for the ride back to Bukit Lawang. 






On the way back to our end of the village, Zoe got some banana fritters and Sarah got a dress. We then had some lunch at the Jungle Inn. It started to rain a little as we walked back to the bungalow (which the macaques had been into again), where we went out on the balcony to read. At one point, as I stood talking to Kate, I glanced down at the river and could scarcely believe my eyes. Gone was the lovely clear waterway of only moments before, replaced by a raging, roiling, caramel-coloured torrent. The small amount of rain that had fallen on us was obviously the outer margin of a much heavier downpour farther upstream and as we watched, the river crept higher and higher until it reached from bank to bank and the exposed river pebbles we were used to seeing were all submerged. We went down to take a closer look and the girls discovered that some of the young local guys were using nets to scoop fish from the maelstrom. That was the last we saw of them for a while as they joined in the grabbing of the little fish that the net guys emptied onto the river bank.









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