In the morning, we
finished packing and took our bags downstairs, checked out and had a
quick breakfast. 'Our' tuk-tuk driver then took us back to the bus
station, where our bus was already ready and waiting. The journey
back to Phnom Penh passed largely without incident. The one thing
that stands out from the journey, however, was the realisation that I
made towards the end that virtually all of the houses that we passed
had strange little effigies out the front – human figures made by
stuffing something into a shirt and pants and then sticking some sort
of head on top. There was something slightly creepy and Blair Witch
about the whole thing – and I never did find out what they
represented (although I did see them elsewhere in Cambodia).
When we arrived in
Phnom Penh we were met by two tuk-tuk drivers, ready to take us to
our hostel – a different one this time as Kate was bitten by
bedbugs in our last one. First, however, we made a quick visit to a
different bus company office to buy some coach tickets for our next
leg – to a little roadside village from which we would get a boat
to a little riverside village in the Cardamom Mountains. When we go
the hostel, the room we were shown to was very basic – a concrete
floor, ceiling fans, air con, a bathroom with no hooks or mirror. It
had obviously originally been built for a different purpose as it had
huge plate-glass windows that looked out onto the central corridor,
so you felt a little bit like a zoo exhibit if you left the blinds
open. Another huge window that looked out onto the bar area had been
covered over with blackout paint. The hostel had a nice balcony area
upstairs but unfortunately it had done nothing with it.
After dropping off
our bags we went for a walk around the area looking for somewhere to
have a beer and a snack – passing a group of barbers working on the
street who hailed me and offered to give me a trim. Our meanderings
eventually brought us to a little place on a street corner not from
the hostel, where we ordered a plate of chips and a jug of beer, and
played several hands of rummy (and marvelled once again at the
incredibly profusion of black wires strung between the telegraph
poles along the street – a Southeast Asian phenomenon that never
ceases to amaze me).
We then walked
around some more, looking for somewhere to have dinner, coming across
a young Frenchman selling crepes from a little cart on another street
corner. We ordered a few crepes for the girls and stood and talked to
him as he prepared them. He had been travelling for about a year,
slowly making his way around Asia as the mood took him, and we
tortured him by describing our own travels in France and the things
we will most miss about having France on our doorstep (which of
course were the things he most missed about being in France). Nothing leapt out at us, restaurant-wise, so we went back to our corner restaurant and ate there.
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